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RESTAURANTS IN FRANCE
South-Eastern France
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 AIX-EN-PROVENCE (Provence)
L'AMPHYTRION (25~35 Euros) 
Address: 2 et 4, rue Paul-Doumer, Aix-en-Provence 
Tel.: (33)(4)42265410 
Near the Cours Mirabeau, Bruno Ungaro has created a typical Provencal haven with his restaurant and garden. Crackling vegetables in olive oil, stuffed tomatooes, Sisteron lamb, alouette sans tete (lamb), Brousse cheese lasagna. 

AVIGNON (Provence)
AUBERTIN(15~60 Euros) 
(Jean-Claude Aubertin) 
(Open until 22:00. Closed on Sundays & Mondays) 
Address: 1, rue de l'Hopital, 30400, Villeneuve-Lès-Avignon (Across the Rhône River from Avignon) 
Tel.: (33)(4)90259484 
Fax: (33)(4)90258006 
No-one would think that such a small harbour no less than three first-class restaurants. Located under the arcade in front of the local church, one can eat outside in summer, although I definitely prefer indoors. Splendid grillon de ris d'agneau à la cannelle to be savoured with a compote de céleri aux poires et aux truffes, Excellent tarte au vin chaud et aux fruits secs with crème glacée aux noix, challenging rognons de veau with "forgotten vegetables", delicious consommé de fenouil de langoustines and finally some very reasonable regional wines worth the try! 
LA MAGNANERAIE((25~70 Euros) 
(Gerard Prayal) 
(Last orders at 21:30) 
Address: 37, rue Camp-de-Bataille, 30400, Villeneuve-Lès-Avignon (Across the Rhône River from Avignon)(See hotels) 
Tel.: (33)(4)902511 
Fax: (33)(4)90254637 
One of the three stars of this little town. In summer eat outside in the enormous garden. Service perfect. The fleur de courgette stuffed with chicken mousse and truffes is a must! Other beauties: minute de loup rôti en écailles de courgette, fantaisie de Saint-Jacques au basilic, gâteau d'agneau à la fondue d'aubergines. The best crème brulée I have ever tasted! Superb "Papes" wines cellar. 
Jean Alesi's favourite resraurant! 

LE PRIEURÉ(30~65 Euros) 
(Serge Chener) 
(Last orders at 21:30. Closed Wednesdays ( March 22nd~April 16th, & May 1st), and from November 2nd~March 21st) 
Address: 7, place du chapitre, 30-400, Villeneuve-Lès Avignon(across the Rhône River from Avignon) 
Tel.: (33)(4)90251820 
Fax: (33)(4)90254539 
One of the three must in this little city! Very precise exacting classical cuisine. Beautiful marriage of escalope de foie gras a l'Hypocras and pain d'épeautre aux épices. Remarkable  entire ris de veau pique de bois de réglisse d'Uzès. Roasted pineapple with pistou de fruits. Great cellar. 
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/leprieure 


BARCELONNETTE (Southern Alpes)
LA MANGEOIRE  (25~45 Euros) 
Address: Place des Quatre Vents, 04400, barcelonnette 
Tel.: (33)(4)92810151 
Fax: (33)(4)92815613 
Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays in winter, November 15th~December 28th. 
Varied menu served in a 17th-Century stable with a vaulted ceiling. 

BEAULIEU (Riviera)
LE MÉTROPOLE (43, 60, 75 Euros) 
Address: Boulevard Maréchal Leclerc, 06310, Beaulieu. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93010008 
Christian Métral has just modernised a trifle the cuisine of this venerable palace: "Cassolette de supions aus févettes et huîtres" (what a challenge!), steamed seabass wuth vegetable compote and basilico oil. 
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/metropole 

LA RÉSERVE (52~85 Euros) 
Address: Boulevard Maréchal Leclerc, 06310, Beaulieu. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93010001 
Cgristophe Cussac who worked for 7 years under Joël Robuchon shows a rejuvenated classic style and very precise taste in his masterpieces: cress juice and safran frog legs rusotto, Campari sweet and sour seabream, riasted truffled pigeon with parmesan lettuce heart, "croustillant de sésame aux agrumes et beurre d'orange de miel" (try to translate that! Just eat it!), chocolate-mango point with soya pepper. 
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/beaulieu 


BREIL-SUR-ROYA (Provence-North of Menton)
CASTEL DU ROY (16,50 ~32 Euros) 
Address: Route de TEnde, 06540 Breil-sur-Roya 
Tel.: (33)(4)93044366 
Fax: (33)(4)93049183 
Closed November 1stMarch 1st 
In a park along a river, inside hotel of same name. 
Typical Provencal cuisine. Fresh Pasta Trilogy, Canon d'Agneau (Lamb) with fresh goat cheese and herbs, Lobster Ravioles. 

CHAMBÉRY (Alps)
CHÂTEAU DE CANDIE (90~160 Euros + Restaurant, 23~55 Euros) 
Address: 38, rue Bobby Sands, 73000, Chambéry-le-Vieux (5 km from Chambéry) 
Tel.: (33)(4)79966300 
Fax: (33)(4)79966310 
Five minutes from the centre of Chambéry, this massive XIVth Century Château had its beutiful rooms elegantly renovated. 
The cuisine is inspired by its Savoy roots: sautéed mushrooms and crawfish, omble chevalier meunière, beef fillet seasoned with Szechuan pepper. Great cheeses and wines. All food served in the "Orangerie". 

L'ESSENTIEL (27~53 Euros) 
Address: 183, place de la Gare, 73000, Chambéry. 
Tel.: (33)(4)79969727 
Fax: (33)(4)79961778 
Closed on Saturday Lunches & aal Subdays. 
A contemparary decor and inventive reguonal cuisine, served with local Savoy wines. 

L'HYPOTÉNUSE (14~35 Euros) 
Address: Carré Curial, 73000, Chambéry. 
Tel.: (33)(4)79858015 
Fax: (33)(4)79858018 
Closed on Saturday lunches & all Sundays as well as July 15th~August 15th. 
In a space full of silence and fresh air, this restaurant offers a seasomal cuisine created with locally grown products at a reasonable price. 

AUX PIÉTONS 
Address: Place Monge, 73000, Chambéry. 
Tel.: (33)(4)79855245 
Closed on Sundays & Tuesday nights. 
Gearty local specialities: cheese fondue, tartiflette and brasérade. 

LE TONNEAU (17~35 Euros) 
Address: 2, rie Saint-Antoine, 73000, Chambéry. 
Tel.: (33)(4)79337826 
Fax: (33)(4)79854969 
Closed on Sunday evenings & all Sundays. 
An elegent restaurant with a shaded terrace for summer dining. 
Great service and food. 


COLLIOURE (Catalogne)
AMPHITRYON (Reservations a must!) 
Address: 1, rue Jean Bart (Boutigue Beach), 66900, Collioure. 
Tel.: (33)(4)68823600 
A very-well located establishment  with a wide terrace-restaurant facing the sea and Bay of Collioure (reserve if you want a seat by the edge). Good oysters and excellent "Carzuella" (a large fish casserolle for three people: 35 Euros). Easy-going staff. 
LES TEMPLIERS (Bar-Restaurant-Cafe-Hotel) 
Address: 12, Quai de l'Amiraute, 66910, Collioure. 
Tel.: (33)(4)68983110 
Fax: (33)(4)68980124 
(Restaurant closed on Sundays) 
Also Hotel rooms from 70 to 80 Euros 
An incredible collection of paintings & sketches collected by several generations decorate the cafe room and the hotel stairs (including a Dufy!). The cafe is worth stopping every day. The rest is pretty much run-of-the-mill resort though. 

ÈZE (Riviera)
LA CHÈVRE D'OR (40, 55, 85 Euros) 
Address: Rue de Berry, 06360, Èze-Village. 
Tel.: (33)(4)92106666 
Marc Lacour used his magical wand on this hifh-placed restaurant. "Croustillant de cochon de lait avec salade d'asperges à la truffe écrasée " (it sounds so much better this way!), scampi with coriander and artichoke ravioli, tomato and garlic stuffed lamb fillet, ricota-liaised vegetables tortelli. Great fresh desserts. 
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/chevredor 

L'OLIVIER (32 euros) 
Address: Place du Général-de-Faule, 06360, Èze-Village. 
Tek.: (33)(4)92415040 
Reasonably priced Italo-mediterranean cuisine in a gay decor along the road. 


FORCALQUIER (Provence)
HOSTELLERIE DES DEUX LIONS 
Address: 11, Place du Bourget, 04300, Forcalquier 
Tel.: (33)(4)92752530 
Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays & November. 
Inventive regional cuisine. 
Don't miss the exceptional cheese tray! 

GRENOBLE (Alps)
A MA TABLE 
Address: 92, Cours Jean-Jaures, 38000 Grenoble 
Tel.: (33)(4)76967706 
Closed on Saturday lunches, Sundays, Mondays & August. 
Creative cuisine with fish specialties. 
Reserve ahead as the restaurant serves only 10 people! 

LE MAL ASSIS 
Address: 9, rue Bayard, 3800 Grenoble 
Closed on Saturday lunches, Sundays, Mondasy & July~mid-August 
A friendly restaurant near art galleries and antique dealers for a traditional french meal. 

LES SKIEURS 
Address: Route du Col de la Poste, Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, 38000 Grenoble 
Te.: (33)(4)76888276 
Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays (except in summer) 
A mountain chalet with traditional cuisine, exceptional desserts and, in summer, a lovely terrace overlooking the pool. 


LYON
LE CAFÉ DES FÉDÉRATIONS  
Address: 8, rue du Major-Martin, 69001 Lyon. 
Tel,: (33)(4)78282600 
A celebrated "bouchon", the main speciality of which is pork. Madeira sauce veal kidneys, two-apple boudin (black pudding), pork jowls. if you are in luck, Yves Rivoiron, the new owner will propose you  the apéritif in is cellar. 

CHEZ GEORGES-LE PETIT BOUCHON 
Address: 8, rue Garet, 69001 Lyon. 
Tel.: (33)(4)78283046 
Michel Deschamps is looking after the counter while France Deschamps is cooking in this typical Lyon "bouchon". Pot-au-feu, garlic chicken, gratinees tripes, apple tart. 

DANIEL ET DENISE 
Address: 156, rue de Crequi, 69003, Lyon. 
Tel.: (33)(4)78606653 
Originally a delicatessen opened in 1928 converted into a "Bouchon" bistrot by Daniel and Denise Leron. Crowded with the "cream" of Lyon. Cream Bresse chicken, jelly rabbit cake, Pârlinéed floating island, crayfish omelette, Nantua sauce pike. Daniel Leron was a MOF in 1976 together with Joël Robuchon... 

LE GARET 
Address: 7, rue du Garet, 69001 Lyon. 
Tel. :(33)(4)78281694 
Typical Lyon "bouchon" with a very original atmosphere and sketches and paintings decor. Michel Laurent and Julien Emmanuelli serve a "terrine du chef"  known all over town. Potato Feuilleté, braised  beef with carrots, lamb brains meunière. 

HUGON 
Address: 12, rue Pizay, 69001 Lyon. 
Tel.: (33)(4)78281094 
Henri Lugon looks after the counter of this "bouchon" while his wife Arlette cooks veal blanquette, chicken liver cake, pork civet. Almost raucous atmosphere. 

LÉON DE LYON (~60 Euros) (Lacombe) 
Address: 1, ue Pleney, 69001, Lyon 
Tel.: (33)(4)72101112 
Fax: (33)(4)70101113 
Closed Sundays & Mondays, 30th July~21st August. 
Atmospgere a bit stuff, classical cuisine (generous  portions) with a sense to perfection. 
Lukewarm Spring vegetables and crawfish and quenelles salad in light Nantua sauce. Wild boar fillet with its jidneys and cutlets. Roasted dick breast. 
(Article & photography courtesy of Yoshinori Nagafusa) 

LE VIVARAIS (25~30 Euros) 
(Open until 22:15)(Closed Sundays & August) 
1, place du Docteur Gailleton, 69002, Lyon 
Tel.: (33)(4)78378515 
Fax: (33)(4)78375949 
A retro-style bistro typical of the cuisine of Lyon. Escalope de thon piperade, feuilleté de moules aux épinards, gâteau de riz à l'écorced'orange.Good Rhône wines. 


NICE (Riviera)
 
L'ALLEGRO (16, 30 Euros) 
Address: 6, place Guynemer, 06300, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93566206 
Goof Italian cuisine in a Comedia Dell'Arte atmosphere. 

L'ÂNE ROUGE (23, 30, 36 Euros) 
Address: 7, rue des Deux-Emmanuel, 0600, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93894963 
Serious classical restaurant along the harbour organised ny Michel Devillers. Well-balanced menus with sophisticated and light cuisine. Red seabream salad in preserved pistouillade lasagna, "pageot" (big seabream) toasted in its anise-scented juice, fresh vegetables braised bream, Nice-style fruit marmalade with Grand Marnier sabayon. 

AUBERGE DES ARTS (15~45 Euros) 
Address: 9, rue Pairolière, 06300, Nice. 
A bubbling Yves Betasso in the restaurant and a young David Faure in the kitchen look after this typical old nice restaurant. The stockfish bass is an event! 

LE CHANTECLER (30, 60, 86 Euros) 
Address: Hotel Negresco, 37, promenade des Anglais, 0600, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93166406 
Young genius Alain Llorca has kept this restaurant reputation high with his tomatoes velouté, young piglet lard stuffed with morels and herb butter frog ragout, an impertinent tomato tatin with black olive ice-cream, chocolate sauce coffee-lemon délice. 

LE COCO BEACH (32, 36, 57 Euros) 
Address: 2, avenue Jean-Lorrain, 06000, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)4)93893926 
The site of this boat-shaped hut is magical with its incredible view of Nice. the Querino-Cauvin Family uses only the best products. Beautiful safran gish soup, vegetables basket, chapon, roasted bass or seabream with roquette salad, Grand Marnier moysse, chocolate ganache. 

LE DON CAMILLO (17, 22, 35, 50 Euros) 
Address: 5, rue des Pouchettes, 06300, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93856795 
Young Stéphane Viano serves an inspired italo-niçoise cuisine playing on the market products: polchetta rabbit with fennel salad, small herb ravioli in daube sauce, seabream escabèche with aubergine caviar and preserved tomatoes, cep (porcini) and vegetables risotto. 

LOU PISTOU (30 Euros) 
Address: 4, rue de la Terrasse, 06000, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93622182 
Small Nice "bouchon" with fishes typical of the area. 

LA MERENDA(30Euros) 
Address: 4, rue de la Terrasse, 06000, Nice. 
Three gentlemen including chef, Dominique Le Stanc, all formed at the "Chantecler" look after this minuscule restaurant sitting 24 guests on stools, a trattoria without telephone, checks or credit cards. Menton tart (pissaladière without the anchovies), crackling pizza, courgette beignets, stuffed sardines, pistou pasta, parmesan (parmeggiano) gratinéed tripes, beef daube. 
Great ambiance. 

LA PETITE MAISON (35~55 Euros) 
Address: 11, rue Saint-François-de-Paul, 06000, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93893926 
The site of this boat-shaped hut is magical with its incredible view of Nice. The Quirino-Cauvin family uses only the best fresh products. Beautiful safran fish soup, vegetables basket, chapon, roasted bass or seabream with roquette salad, Grand marnier mousse, chocolate ganache. 

L'UNIVERS (28, 50, 58 Euros) 
Address: 54, boulevard Jean-Jaurès, 06000, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93623222 
Christian Plumail, a true Niçois, has succeeded in converting this former brasserie into a first-class restaurant playing on the products of the local market: seabream sticks with asparaguses in brick pastry, petit-gris snails bouillon, scampi, stockfish-style bass with herb pasta, roasted fig pain-perdu with ginger bread ice-cream. 

LA ZUCCA MAGICA (12~23 Euros) 
Address: 4bis, Quai Papacino, 06000, Nice. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93562527 
Surprising vegetarian restaurant organised by Italians Marco Folicalfi and Rossella Belmida. Aubergines polpetta with lemon rinds, Roman gnocchi, orechiette & lentils soup, Napolitan tart stuffed with olives, pine seeds and raisins, artichoke and chickory maltgliati. 


NÎMES (Languedoc)
LE LYSITA (21~35 Euros) 
Address: 2, boulevard des Arènes, 30900, Nîmes. 
Tel.: (33)(4)66672915 
Fac: (33)(4)66272532 
Opposite to the theatre. Authentic cuisine prepared by two young chefs. 

LE MAGISTER (25~32 euros) 
Address: 5, rue Nationale, 30900, Nîmes. 
Tel.: (33)(4)66761100 
Fax: (33)(4)66672105 
Closed on Saturday lunch & Sundays and August. 
High-class cuisine, definitely worth the pricey menu. 


PERPIGNAN (Catalogne)
CAFE VIENNE 
Address: 3, Place Arago, 64000, Perpignan 
Rel.: (33)(4)68348000 
Opening hours: 12:00~24:00 
A honest, large typical open-air (in summer) cafe-restayrant. Good service in spite of crowding. Nice oysters, mussles & salmon. A few interesting local wines. 

SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT (Riviera)
JEAN-JACQUES FOUTEUX (350FF) 
Address: 2, avenue Sémerin, 06230, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93760397 
"J.J.J.", as he is called, brillantly plays on the market produces. Asparagus tiles and cold potato dream with truffles are jis best two dishes. 

LE SLOOP (155FF) 
Address: Au nouveau Port, 06230, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93014863 
Great quality/price ratio and beautiful location on the harbour. 


VAISON-LA-ROMAINE (Provence)
LE MOULIN À  HUILE (190~400FF)(Robert Bardot) 
Address: 1, quai du Maréchal Foch, 84110, Vaison-La-Romaine. 
Tel.: (33)(4)90362067 
At 64 years of age Robert Bardot is making a comeback (he used to be a star in Northern Lille) in this famous Provence city. He is showing his eternal talent in pistou juice grouper, fennel and spices wood fire grilled scampi, Alpilles lamb cutlets and mint fillet, fine fruits tart and campari/honey sherbet. Sublime petit fours and homemade jellied fruits. 

VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER (Riviera)
MÈRE GERMAINE (210, 280FF) 
Address: Quai Courbet, 06230, Villefranche. 
Tel.: (33)(4)93017139 
Old-style welcome and service, elegant room, great terrace, impeccable fish, superb view of the harbour and the bay explain why Jean Cocteau loved the place. 

MICHEL'S (150, 250FF) 
Address: place Amélie-Pontonnais, 06230, Villefranche. 
Tek.: (33)(4)93767324 
Stone-vaulted room, reasonable prices, precise cooking and fresh fish expmin the success of this establishment.