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AIX-EN-PROVENCE (Provence)
L'AMPHYTRION (25~35 Euros)
Address: 2 et 4, rue Paul-Doumer, Aix-en-Provence
Tel.: (33)(4)42265410
Near the Cours Mirabeau, Bruno Ungaro has created a typical Provencal
haven with his restaurant and garden. Crackling vegetables in olive oil,
stuffed tomatooes, Sisteron lamb, alouette sans tete (lamb), Brousse cheese
lasagna.
AVIGNON (Provence)
AUBERTIN(15~60 Euros)
(Jean-Claude Aubertin)
(Open until 22:00. Closed on Sundays & Mondays)
Address: 1, rue de l'Hopital, 30400, Villeneuve-Lès-Avignon
(Across the Rhône River from Avignon)
Tel.: (33)(4)90259484
Fax: (33)(4)90258006
No-one would think that such a small harbour no less than three first-class
restaurants. Located under the arcade in front of the local church, one
can eat outside in summer, although I definitely prefer indoors. Splendid
grillon de ris d'agneau à la cannelle to be savoured with a compote
de céleri aux poires et aux truffes, Excellent tarte au vin chaud
et aux fruits secs with crème glacée aux noix, challenging
rognons de veau with "forgotten vegetables", delicious consommé
de fenouil de langoustines and finally some very reasonable regional wines
worth the try!
LA MAGNANERAIE((25~70 Euros)
(Gerard Prayal)
(Last orders at 21:30)
Address: 37, rue Camp-de-Bataille, 30400, Villeneuve-Lès-Avignon
(Across the Rhône River from Avignon)(See hotels)
Tel.: (33)(4)902511
Fax: (33)(4)90254637
One of the three stars of this little town. In summer eat outside in
the enormous garden. Service perfect. The fleur de courgette stuffed with
chicken mousse and truffes is a must! Other beauties: minute de loup rôti
en écailles de courgette, fantaisie de Saint-Jacques au basilic,
gâteau d'agneau à la fondue d'aubergines. The best crème
brulée I have ever tasted! Superb "Papes" wines cellar.
Jean Alesi's favourite resraurant!
LE PRIEURÉ(30~65 Euros)
(Serge Chener)
(Last orders at 21:30. Closed Wednesdays ( March 22nd~April 16th, &
May 1st), and from November 2nd~March 21st)
Address: 7, place du chapitre, 30-400, Villeneuve-Lès Avignon(across
the Rhône River from Avignon)
Tel.: (33)(4)90251820
Fax: (33)(4)90254539
One of the three must in this little city! Very precise exacting classical
cuisine. Beautiful marriage of escalope de foie gras a l'Hypocras and pain
d'épeautre aux épices. Remarkable entire ris de veau
pique de bois de réglisse d'Uzès. Roasted pineapple with
pistou de fruits. Great cellar.
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/leprieure
BARCELONNETTE (Southern Alpes)
LA MANGEOIRE (25~45 Euros)
Address: Place des Quatre Vents, 04400, barcelonnette
Tel.: (33)(4)92810151
Fax: (33)(4)92815613
Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays in winter, November 15th~December
28th.
Varied menu served in a 17th-Century stable with a vaulted ceiling.
BEAULIEU (Riviera)
LE MÉTROPOLE (43,
60, 75 Euros)
Address: Boulevard Maréchal Leclerc, 06310,
Beaulieu.
Tel.: (33)(4)93010008
Christian Métral has just modernised a
trifle the cuisine of this venerable palace: "Cassolette de supions aus
févettes et huîtres" (what a challenge!), steamed seabass
wuth vegetable compote and basilico oil.
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/metropole
LA RÉSERVE
(52~85 Euros)
Address: Boulevard Maréchal Leclerc, 06310,
Beaulieu.
Tel.: (33)(4)93010001
Cgristophe Cussac who worked for 7 years under
Joël Robuchon shows a rejuvenated classic style and very precise taste
in his masterpieces: cress juice and safran frog legs rusotto, Campari
sweet and sour seabream, riasted truffled pigeon with parmesan lettuce
heart, "croustillant de sésame aux agrumes et beurre d'orange de
miel" (try to translate that! Just eat it!), chocolate-mango point with
soya pepper.
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/beaulieu
BREIL-SUR-ROYA (Provence-North
of Menton)
CASTEL DU ROY (16,50 ~32 Euros)
Address: Route de TEnde, 06540 Breil-sur-Roya
Tel.: (33)(4)93044366
Fax: (33)(4)93049183
Closed November 1stMarch 1st
In a park along a river, inside hotel of same name.
Typical Provencal cuisine. Fresh Pasta Trilogy, Canon d'Agneau (Lamb)
with fresh goat cheese and herbs, Lobster Ravioles.
CHAMBÉRY (Alps)
CHÂTEAU DE CANDIE (90~160
Euros + Restaurant, 23~55 Euros)
Address: 38, rue Bobby Sands, 73000, Chambéry-le-Vieux
(5 km from Chambéry)
Tel.: (33)(4)79966300
Fax: (33)(4)79966310
Five minutes from the centre of Chambéry,
this massive XIVth Century Château had its beutiful rooms elegantly
renovated.
The cuisine is inspired by its Savoy roots: sautéed
mushrooms and crawfish, omble chevalier meunière, beef fillet seasoned
with Szechuan pepper. Great cheeses and wines. All food served in the "Orangerie".
L'ESSENTIEL (27~53
Euros)
Address: 183, place de la Gare, 73000, Chambéry.
Tel.: (33)(4)79969727
Fax: (33)(4)79961778
Closed on Saturday Lunches & aal Subdays.
A contemparary decor and inventive reguonal cuisine,
served with local Savoy wines.
L'HYPOTÉNUSE
(14~35 Euros)
Address: Carré Curial, 73000, Chambéry.
Tel.: (33)(4)79858015
Fax: (33)(4)79858018
Closed on Saturday lunches & all Sundays
as well as July 15th~August 15th.
In a space full of silence and fresh air, this
restaurant offers a seasomal cuisine created with locally grown products
at a reasonable price.
AUX PIÉTONS
Address: Place Monge, 73000, Chambéry.
Tel.: (33)(4)79855245
Closed on Sundays & Tuesday nights.
Gearty local specialities: cheese fondue, tartiflette
and brasérade.
LE TONNEAU (17~35
Euros)
Address: 2, rie Saint-Antoine, 73000, Chambéry.
Tel.: (33)(4)79337826
Fax: (33)(4)79854969
Closed on Sunday evenings & all Sundays.
An elegent restaurant with a shaded terrace for
summer dining.
Great service and food.
COLLIOURE (Catalogne)
AMPHITRYON (Reservations a must!)
Address: 1, rue Jean Bart (Boutigue Beach), 66900,
Collioure.
Tel.: (33)(4)68823600
A very-well located establishment with
a wide terrace-restaurant facing the sea and Bay of Collioure (reserve
if you want a seat by the edge). Good oysters and excellent "Carzuella"
(a large fish casserolle for three people: 35 Euros). Easy-going staff.
LES TEMPLIERS (Bar-Restaurant-Cafe-Hotel)
Address: 12, Quai de l'Amiraute, 66910, Collioure.
Tel.: (33)(4)68983110
Fax: (33)(4)68980124
(Restaurant closed on Sundays)
Also Hotel rooms from 70 to 80 Euros
An incredible collection of paintings & sketches collected by several
generations decorate the cafe room and the hotel stairs (including a Dufy!).
The cafe is worth stopping every day. The rest is pretty much run-of-the-mill
resort though.
ÈZE (Riviera)
LA CHÈVRE D'OR
(40, 55, 85 Euros)
Address: Rue de Berry, 06360, Èze-Village.
Tel.: (33)(4)92106666
Marc Lacour used his magical wand on this hifh-placed restaurant. "Croustillant
de cochon de lait avec salade d'asperges à
la truffe écrasée " (it sounds so much better this way!),
scampi with coriander and artichoke ravioli, tomato and garlic stuffed
lamb fillet, ricota-liaised vegetables tortelli. Great fresh desserts.
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/chevredor
L'OLIVIER (32 euros)
Address: Place du Général-de-Faule,
06360, Èze-Village.
Tek.: (33)(4)92415040
Reasonably priced Italo-mediterranean cuisine
in a gay decor along the road.
FORCALQUIER (Provence)
HOSTELLERIE DES DEUX LIONS
Address: 11, Place du Bourget, 04300, Forcalquier
Tel.: (33)(4)92752530
Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays & November.
Inventive regional cuisine.
Don't miss the exceptional cheese tray!
GRENOBLE (Alps)
A MA TABLE
Address: 92, Cours Jean-Jaures, 38000 Grenoble
Tel.: (33)(4)76967706
Closed on Saturday lunches, Sundays, Mondays & August.
Creative cuisine with fish specialties.
Reserve ahead as the restaurant serves only 10 people!
LE MAL ASSIS
Address: 9, rue Bayard, 3800 Grenoble
Closed on Saturday lunches, Sundays, Mondasy & July~mid-August
A friendly restaurant near art galleries and antique dealers for a
traditional french meal.
LES SKIEURS
Address: Route du Col de la Poste, Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, 38000 Grenoble
Te.: (33)(4)76888276
Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays (except in summer)
A mountain chalet with traditional cuisine, exceptional desserts and,
in summer, a lovely terrace overlooking the pool.
LYON
LE CAFÉ DES FÉDÉRATIONS
Address: 8, rue du Major-Martin, 69001 Lyon.
Tel,: (33)(4)78282600
A celebrated "bouchon", the main speciality of which is pork. Madeira
sauce veal kidneys, two-apple boudin (black pudding), pork jowls. if you
are in luck, Yves Rivoiron, the new owner will propose you the apéritif
in is cellar.
CHEZ GEORGES-LE PETIT BOUCHON
Address: 8, rue Garet, 69001 Lyon.
Tel.: (33)(4)78283046
Michel Deschamps is looking after the counter while France Deschamps
is cooking in this typical Lyon "bouchon". Pot-au-feu, garlic chicken,
gratinees tripes, apple tart.
DANIEL ET DENISE
Address: 156, rue de Crequi, 69003, Lyon.
Tel.: (33)(4)78606653
Originally a delicatessen opened in 1928 converted into a "Bouchon"
bistrot by Daniel and Denise Leron. Crowded with the "cream" of Lyon. Cream
Bresse chicken, jelly rabbit cake, Pârlinéed floating island,
crayfish omelette, Nantua sauce pike. Daniel Leron was a MOF in 1976 together
with Joël Robuchon...
LE GARET
Address: 7, rue du Garet, 69001 Lyon.
Tel. :(33)(4)78281694
Typical Lyon "bouchon" with a very original atmosphere and sketches
and paintings decor. Michel Laurent and Julien Emmanuelli serve a "terrine
du chef" known all over town. Potato Feuilleté, braised
beef with carrots, lamb brains meunière.
HUGON
Address: 12, rue Pizay, 69001 Lyon.
Tel.: (33)(4)78281094
Henri Lugon looks after the counter of this "bouchon" while his wife
Arlette cooks veal blanquette, chicken liver cake, pork civet. Almost raucous
atmosphere.
LÉON DE LYON (~60 Euros) (Lacombe)
Address: 1, ue Pleney, 69001, Lyon
Tel.: (33)(4)72101112
Fax: (33)(4)70101113
Closed Sundays & Mondays, 30th July~21st August.
Atmospgere a bit stuff, classical cuisine (generous portions)
with a sense to perfection.
Lukewarm Spring vegetables and crawfish and quenelles salad in light
Nantua sauce. Wild boar fillet with its jidneys and cutlets. Roasted dick
breast.
(Article & photography courtesy of Yoshinori Nagafusa)
LE VIVARAIS (25~30 Euros)
(Open until 22:15)(Closed Sundays & August)
1, place du Docteur Gailleton, 69002, Lyon
Tel.: (33)(4)78378515
Fax: (33)(4)78375949
A retro-style bistro typical of the cuisine of Lyon. Escalope de thon
piperade, feuilleté de moules aux épinards, gâteau
de riz à l'écorced'orange.Good Rhône wines.
NICE (Riviera)
L'ALLEGRO (16, 30 Euros)
Address: 6, place Guynemer, 06300, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93566206
Goof Italian cuisine in a Comedia Dell'Arte atmosphere.
L'ÂNE ROUGE (23, 30, 36 Euros)
Address: 7, rue des Deux-Emmanuel, 0600, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93894963
Serious classical restaurant along the harbour organised ny Michel
Devillers. Well-balanced menus with sophisticated and light cuisine. Red
seabream salad in preserved pistouillade lasagna, "pageot" (big seabream)
toasted in its anise-scented juice, fresh vegetables braised bream, Nice-style
fruit marmalade with Grand Marnier sabayon.
AUBERGE DES ARTS (15~45 Euros)
Address: 9, rue Pairolière, 06300, Nice.
A bubbling Yves Betasso in the restaurant and a young David Faure in
the kitchen look after this typical old nice restaurant. The stockfish
bass is an event!
LE CHANTECLER (30, 60, 86 Euros)
Address: Hotel Negresco, 37, promenade des Anglais, 0600, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93166406
Young genius Alain Llorca has kept this restaurant reputation high
with his tomatoes velouté, young piglet lard stuffed with morels
and herb butter frog ragout, an impertinent tomato tatin with black olive
ice-cream, chocolate sauce coffee-lemon délice.
LE COCO BEACH (32, 36, 57 Euros)
Address: 2, avenue Jean-Lorrain, 06000, Nice.
Tel.: (33)4)93893926
The site of this boat-shaped hut is magical with its incredible view
of Nice. the Querino-Cauvin Family uses only the best products. Beautiful
safran gish soup, vegetables basket, chapon, roasted bass or seabream with
roquette salad, Grand Marnier moysse, chocolate ganache.
LE DON CAMILLO (17, 22, 35, 50 Euros)
Address: 5, rue des Pouchettes, 06300, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93856795
Young Stéphane Viano serves an inspired italo-niçoise
cuisine playing on the market products: polchetta rabbit with fennel salad,
small herb ravioli in daube sauce, seabream escabèche with aubergine
caviar and preserved tomatoes, cep (porcini) and vegetables risotto.
LOU PISTOU (30 Euros)
Address: 4, rue de la Terrasse, 06000, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93622182
Small Nice "bouchon" with fishes typical of the area.
LA MERENDA(30Euros)
Address: 4, rue de la Terrasse, 06000, Nice.
Three gentlemen including chef, Dominique Le Stanc, all formed at the
"Chantecler" look after this minuscule restaurant sitting 24 guests on
stools, a trattoria without telephone, checks or credit cards. Menton tart
(pissaladière without the anchovies), crackling pizza, courgette
beignets, stuffed sardines, pistou pasta, parmesan (parmeggiano) gratinéed
tripes, beef daube.
Great ambiance.
LA PETITE MAISON (35~55 Euros)
Address: 11, rue Saint-François-de-Paul, 06000, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93893926
The site of this boat-shaped hut is magical with its incredible view
of Nice. The Quirino-Cauvin family uses only the best fresh products. Beautiful
safran fish soup, vegetables basket, chapon, roasted bass or seabream with
roquette salad, Grand marnier mousse, chocolate ganache.
L'UNIVERS (28, 50, 58 Euros)
Address: 54, boulevard Jean-Jaurès, 06000, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93623222
Christian Plumail, a true Niçois, has succeeded in converting
this former brasserie into a first-class restaurant playing on the products
of the local market: seabream sticks with asparaguses in brick pastry,
petit-gris snails bouillon, scampi, stockfish-style bass with herb pasta,
roasted fig pain-perdu with ginger bread ice-cream.
LA ZUCCA MAGICA (12~23 Euros)
Address: 4bis, Quai Papacino, 06000, Nice.
Tel.: (33)(4)93562527
Surprising vegetarian restaurant organised by Italians Marco Folicalfi
and Rossella Belmida. Aubergines polpetta with lemon rinds, Roman gnocchi,
orechiette & lentils soup, Napolitan tart stuffed with olives, pine
seeds and raisins, artichoke and chickory maltgliati.
NÎMES (Languedoc)
LE LYSITA (21~35 Euros)
Address: 2, boulevard des Arènes, 30900, Nîmes.
Tel.: (33)(4)66672915
Fac: (33)(4)66272532
Opposite to the theatre. Authentic cuisine prepared by two young chefs.
LE MAGISTER (25~32 euros)
Address: 5, rue Nationale, 30900, Nîmes.
Tel.: (33)(4)66761100
Fax: (33)(4)66672105
Closed on Saturday lunch & Sundays and August.
High-class cuisine, definitely worth the pricey menu.
PERPIGNAN (Catalogne)
CAFE VIENNE
Address: 3, Place Arago, 64000, Perpignan
Rel.: (33)(4)68348000
Opening hours: 12:00~24:00
A honest, large typical open-air (in summer)
cafe-restayrant. Good service in spite of crowding. Nice oysters, mussles
& salmon. A few interesting local wines.
SAINT-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT (Riviera)
JEAN-JACQUES FOUTEUX (350FF)
Address: 2, avenue Sémerin, 06230, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Tel.: (33)(4)93760397
"J.J.J.", as he is called, brillantly plays on the market produces.
Asparagus tiles and cold potato dream with truffles are jis best two dishes.
LE SLOOP (155FF)
Address: Au nouveau Port, 06230, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Tel.: (33)(4)93014863
Great quality/price ratio and beautiful location on the harbour.
VAISON-LA-ROMAINE (Provence)
LE MOULIN À HUILE (190~400FF)(Robert
Bardot)
Address: 1, quai du Maréchal Foch, 84110, Vaison-La-Romaine.
Tel.: (33)(4)90362067
At 64 years of age Robert Bardot is making a comeback (he used to be
a star in Northern Lille) in this famous Provence city. He is showing his
eternal talent in pistou juice grouper, fennel and spices wood fire grilled
scampi, Alpilles lamb cutlets and mint fillet, fine fruits tart and campari/honey
sherbet. Sublime petit fours and homemade jellied fruits.
VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER (Riviera)
MÈRE GERMAINE (210, 280FF)
Address: Quai Courbet, 06230, Villefranche.
Tel.: (33)(4)93017139
Old-style welcome and service, elegant room, great terrace, impeccable
fish, superb view of the harbour and the bay explain why Jean Cocteau loved
the place.
MICHEL'S (150, 250FF)
Address: place Amélie-Pontonnais, 06230, Villefranche.
Tek.: (33)(4)93767324
Stone-vaulted room, reasonable prices, precise cooking and fresh fish
expmin the success of this establishment.
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